We have been in Kautokeino for several days and it is only getting better. The Easter celebrations have now started.This does not mean that there are unwise activities all day long. In fact, the opposite. During the day there is very little to do in Kautokeino. People sleep late. The Easter parties are actually mainly nightly activities. The young and old go on until the very early hours. For example, just at half past 11 in the morning, we received an app from our host Jonny that he was now going to bed. And that while we already came home at 3:30 in the morning from a nice night in Alfreds Kro.
We are not those night people. We enjoy a beer in the pub, some live music and in the evening relax on the couch. Preferably with a bowl of chips and a cup of tea. Quite civil yes. That bourgeois here means good food together, a pre-drink and then to the pub at noon to drink it all down and get out of bed at 2 pm the next day. We, on the other hand, are often awake at 8 am.
So this morning I was awake again at 7 o’clock. And that’s pretty tough after a night out with the Sami. Back to those Easter parties because it is not that it is only at night. There are a number of activities during the day. There are exhibitions that you can admire. Of these, we have seen one that did not exceed our expectations. There is a photo exhibition of a Japanese who lived here for 8 years. Beautiful pictures of a time when the Sami migrated really traditionally. Now some put their reindeer in a truck, drive them to the coast and let the reindeer graze there again. That is the really luxurious version that I have only heard once. There was also an ‘ice fishing competition’ where families took to the ice to catch the largest fish. The person with the largest fish wins 30,000kr, which is about 300 Euro. Quite a good price for a fish. What you can also win with a 50 euro ticket is a hybrid car, a snowmobile or money. Many people who participate mainly go for those prizes and just sit in the sun and have a BBQ on the ice.
Then there was the snowmobile cross, which was perhaps the biggest event. A lot of people were out and there were leagues from the age of 4. Unfortunately, as often with crosses, there were some crashes here too. Including one where an ambulance helicopter had to come. In itself, this is somewhat more normal here than in the Netherlands, given the distance from a good hospital. This time he was taken to Tromsø. So that was the end of the snowmobile cross, which was eventually won by the Flying Fin.
The reindeer races have unfortunately been canceled. The reason for this depends on the person you are speaking to. According to one, it is because it is warm early and reindeer grow new antlers. The first moments the antlers are only made of blood and skin. The reindeer are a bit shy and that doesn’t work for racing. Another reason is that there is not enough snow. And yet another reason is that the reindeer are already migrating to the coast. Enough reasons not to let it go ahead. A disappointment to us. And instead of reindeer racing is… nothing. Time to immerse ourselves in the nightlife of Kautokeino.
So we went to a number of concerts such as the traditional Yoik concert and the opening concert which was also Yoik. We’ve even heard Rock & Yoik and Reggae Yoik. Fantastic, I am a fan. Yoik is often without words and therefore easy to sing along. Tonight, Saturday, is the Grand Prix (the song contest of the Sami) followed by some concerts. That nightlife here is really fantastic. At least, during the Easter celebrations. The sports hall has been transformed into a concert hall and the DJ comes after the concerts. Sometimes this starts with two girls in traditional clothes (Kakte). And everyone is dressed in traditional clothing. From young to old, it doesn’t matter. They all wear it with pride. You can see where someone comes from by the ponpon on the shoes, You can see if someone is married or single on the belt (square buttons = married, round = single) and the stripes on the sleeves tell you which family someone belongs to. The parties end around 3am, after which everyone goes home to drink more.
To get to our final destination, we have to change trains once at Oslo airport and then drive for 7 hours from Tromsø via Finland. But, we are used to something. We also took this route two years ago.Then we braved snow storms and ice slippery roads. Not a snowflake in the sky today. Instead we drive under a beautiful clear blue sky with a lovely sun.
On the way through Norway and Finland
In Tromsø we picked up our white Ford Fiesta this morning. A nice little car that we as oldtimer enthusiasts and owners really enjoy. The car starts when necessary, warms us when we want it and even the music can be played via our own mobile. Of course we enjoy it to the full, although we never trade in our old Beetle and T2 van.
Well, once across the border in Finland we decide to have another meal in an old road cafe. Last time we were the only guests, not so bad with the weather at the time. This time it is busy, many customers enjoying a round of cross country skiing or snowmobiling in the area. On such a beautiful day, the frozen lake is an excellent opportunity for Finns and Norwegians to enjoy a day of sport on the ice. By the way, they simply call cross-country skiing here, which caused us some confusion. No high mountains to ski from, but nice hills to cross-country ski up and down again.
Karesuando, the northernmost town in Sweden
After a pizza with reindeer meat we are on our way again. We still have a long way to go and although it doesn’t get dark until late (around 9.30) we still want to arrive a little on time. But, don’t be in a rush. So we certainly still have time for a short trip to the Swedish Karesuando. It is the most northerly settlement in Sweden and has a beautiful church. It is really all that. The village is split in two. One half is on the Finnish side of the river and the other on the Swedish side. Yet for the people who live there it is one village. They speak Swedish, Finnish and Norwegian.
Kautokeino, the final destination
Time to drive on to Kautokeino where we arrive at 5:30 PM. Before we go to Jonny and Kirsten, our friends we stayed with last time, we decide to do some shopping. Kautokeino is not a very large village and yet it is of immense value to the Sami. It has, next to Karasjok, the greatest Sami density and reindeer and of course the largest Sami Easter celebration in the country are still held here. We traveled here for the latter. Although we soon hear from locals that Karasjok is trying to steal their festival a bit and attract the big Sami names.
The largest Easter festival in the Sami
Such an Easter party lasts all week and mainly means that there is a lot of partying, from the age of 18. If you are younger than 18, you are not welcome at the parties. Competitions are held for ice fishing, reindeer racing, snowmobile racing and joik singing. They also have a competition that is very similar to the Eurovision Song Contest, only they call it the Grand Prix here and only Sami’s are invited. We are all going to experience it.
At this time we are looking out over the valley and a beautiful purple sunset. The sky is still very clear and there is not a cloud to be seen. This could mean that we might be able to see the Northern Lights tonight. Although the chance is small because it is only dark for about 5 hours, and not pitch dark. But who knows … we are not giving up yet.
And yes, between 11 and 12 the Northern Lights were clearly visible. Not as we have seen before, but it certainly did not spoil the fun.
Those beautiful people, the cheerful colors, the great headdresses. More than 800 languages and as many different tribes, each with their own culture. The reason I have dreamed of going to Papua New Guinea for years.After staying with the Huli Wigmen for a week, it is now time to see some of those more than 800 tribes. And we do that during the Mount Hagen show; a show where tribes show their splendor in a sing-sing. By applying the most beautiful make-up, wearing the most fantastic headdresses and performing the most challenging dances. This seemed like a good idea instead of a fight, and I can’t disagree.
Because our car broke down for a while, we arrived a little later but just in time to see everyone getting ready for the big sing-sing. After the layout it was time to go to the field where it is all about to happen. And sometimes I can’t find words to describe what that was like, luckily I always know where to find my camera.
Rightly so! It’s a dangerous country. If I have to believe the locals, thieves are everywhere. Especially in Port Moresby, Mount Hagen and the other major cities. Shutting windows and doors does not apply here in the event of a fire or flood, but in the case of a car stop. Especially in Mount Hagen, because the pickpockets will come to sniff in. (more…)
A mud bath. In the Netherlands it costs money and in Papua New Guinea it is insurmountable. The trek to the middle of the jungle in the Hela province (Pilongo village) starts with an unplanned mud bath.(more…)
Thousands of crocodiles live in the Sepik River. We don’t see one. But that’s because they are scared, and that’s not surprising. They are hunted a lot.Many crocodile farms can be found along the Sepik. They remind me of mega stables in Europe. The booths are too small and animal welfare cannot be found there. Japanese and Chinese love these Sepik crocodiles. The hides are used to make shoes, coats and bags. The meat is consumed by the inhabitants of the village and tastes like chicken. Even though crocodiles eat fish here, not chicken.
More is not always better. An oversized crocodile cannot be sold. In that case, the crocodile is eaten by the villagers, beautiful chains are made of the teeth and the skin serves as decoration for the toilet, for example.
Thousands, “no millions” according to our guide Lesley, are there in the river, but after not having seen one on the river for 4 whole days, I start to doubt these numbers.
Kamanibit
Eat fish and sago
In Kamanibit, the village where we spend the night, we receive a necklace with a crocodile tooth as a souvenir. I think it’s cool but I wear it with mixed feelings. Yes, I am a carnivore but I am not in favor of mega stables and also not of animals as decoration. But I can’t refuse the crocodile tooth, it’s a gift. And fair is fair but it is no different than a nice piece of meat on your plate, right?
Crocodiles are hunted and fish are caught. We see dozens of women and children in boats that frequently bring in fish. Our skipper Pieter knows how to tell hundreds a day. The fish vary in size but they all actually taste the same. That will be because of the cooking arts; the fish is cooked on the fire and you remove the meat by hand. More often with than without bones. I wonder if this river will ever be emptied. After all, we are doing a good job overfishing the oceans so why should the Sepik lag behind? At the moment because they do everything here by hand, no trawl nets and bycatch, just like the fish, is cooked on the fire and eaten.
Fish and sago are the daily fare here. Sago comes from the sago palm, it is mixed with water before being cooked on fire. Then it is kept in a sago tray for a month before it can be eaten. It looks like a kind of rubber pancake and doesn’t actually taste like anything. Here they eat it daily, because they don’t have anything else (except fish and some fruit). Sometimes caterpillars are put in, for the protein and the flavor.
Mixing sago with water
Crocodile farm
Our last day on the water goes to Chambri lake. We have lunch at the village of Ibom. Our dry bread and peanut butter lunch is complemented with Pawpaw; a local fruit, orange on the inside, greenish on the outside. You take the seeds out with your hands and then you eat it like a melon. It also tastes a bit like it, more like Papaya by the way. But according to Lesley it is really different. I doubt it.
The village where we have lunch also has a small crocodile farm. That means: three very (read: way too) small cubicles where a lot of crocodiles are pressed together. They let them grow bigger here and then these skins are also sold to Japanese and / or Chinese. I think it looks horrible.
Besides breeding a few crocodiles, they also make pots here. With these pots they can cook inside instead of outside on a fire. They look nice but we decide not to buy one. Our gas burner in The Hague is still fine, besides it’s way too big to take with us.
Everything gets transported via water, including firewood.
The crocodile hunter
And then we move on. The village where we spend the night is called Palembei. We sleep with a real crocodile hunter. He also offers this as a tourist activity. You then go out with him at night to hunt crocodiles. Sometimes they bring in 8 in one night. If one is killed, they eat it. He locks up the living crocodiles.
According to him they are stupid animals. To catch 1 you throw a spear in its back, the crocodile wraps around it and you can grab it with your hands and throw it in a cage. I listen with interest but I also find it sad. If it was done to satisfy the hunger of the locals, okay. But to catch crocodiles because they want to walk with a nice bag in Japan, that is not possible with me. We therefore decline this tourist activity in a friendly manner.
We leave early the next day. At 6 o’clock, so it is still dark. Best chance of seeing crocodiles. And sure enough, one after another has emerged. Everywhere we see eyes light up when we shine on them. I don’t see them very well, but I’m glad to see that there are still a lot of them swimming around. Free, for however long.
Hi there! We are Milene & Yuri. We are travelling the world together since 2015. Our endless curiosity and will to explore has resulted in many cool, and somewhat extreme, adventures. On MYgrations you'll read all about our adventures, you'll find lots of information about the countries we visit you won't find anywhere else and more. Enjoy!
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