Continuing our Armenian advanture

by mygrations | Aug 31, 2021

After five days at the beautiful campsite of Sandra and Marty (3Gs – check it out) we got waaaaay to comfortable with the swimming pool, two kitchens and a washing machine. Not to mention the showers, toilets and incredible wifi. You can imagine, it was time to go. 

Churches! 

With over 4.000 churches we’re sure Armenia must be in the top country of churches. Especially per squared kilometre. We are doing our best to visit some of the most famous, least known and the ones with the prettiest views. The later was on the program for today.

After 1.5 hours we arrived at a small monastery ‘Chor Virap’ with Mount Ararat as a backdrop. Can it get better than that? Maybe, maybe not.

The church itself wasn’t that spectacular, however we did manage to crawl down some stairs into the deep where we arrived at the church dungeon. Here they had built another chapel. God knows why. But it was fun to climb under a church for a change.

Red red wine

As the church and wine are inseparable we decided to continue our trip today to the wine region of Armenia, Areni. Not as big as that of Georgia but maybe nicer? 

On the way there we drove alongside the Armenian / Turkish border where we saw many many watchtowers. A bit further we drove alongside the Armenian / Azerbaijani border. Yeah, Azerbaijan has some enclave in the South West of Armenia, bordering Turkey. That’s why Azerbaijan is so keen on creating this corridor through Armenia. The whole road was protected by a big pile of stones and sand. Every 50 metres (I think, I’m not good at measuring this) was a dug out place where a soldier could fit. He would be surrounded by tires as protection. Than these dug out places changed into tiny, two men bunkers. On the other side we saw the same on the Azerbaijan side. Looks a little hostile of course. But even more so when we saw the dug out trench for soldiers to walk across. And then of course we passed the Russian peace keepers chilling in their tent, visible because of the flag fluttering through the air. 

We drove a little further and actually had to cross an enclave of Azerbaijan. So small only one village fits in it and it didn’t seem like another country to us. The highway just went through, there were no flags and the landscape was the same. The only difference was the road. It’s like driving from The Netherlands into Belgium. The nice beautiful tarmac roads make place for old roads with some cracks. But other than that you wouldn’t notice you would drive through an enclave.

A little bit further we drove into a gorge which is best known as the wine region Areni. We looked for a nice wine cave restaurant (got good reviews on Google) but when arriving it felt like an intrusion. “Are you open?” “We certainly are!” So we parked the car, got inside and ordered a wine tasting. After five minutes she opened a bottle of wine, gave us some glasses and walked away. Her daughter came back with some bread and cheese, smiled friendly and told us to ring a bell when we need her. The door closed and we were alone in the wine cellar with a bottle of wine without name. 

Well we know very well what to do with that bottle, that bread and that cheese. The wine was delicious. The cheese not so much but that’s kind of what we are used to now. For good cheese one has to stay in Western Europe. Nothing beats the French, Swiss and Dutch cheese. 

Half way through the bottle we decided it was time for the main course: Harissa. That’s something I, Milene, make a lot at home. Moroccan Harissa is my favourite! So I was pretty curious what the Armenians make of that. Well, it’s nothing alike. It’s totally different, even the colour doesn’t look the same. It was nice though.

Sleeping under a thousand stars at the church

We continued our adventure to Noravank monastery, which is about 15 minutes from Areni. To get to the church you’ll drive through a magnificent gorge with mountains (and caves) all around. And then after some curves through the gorge you’ll hit a straight road and head towards red rocky mountains. Amazing!!! After seeing mainly dry desert like land today, this was a very welcome change of landscape. 

In Armenian Noravank means ‘new monastery’. A name that doesn’t really fit a monastery that’s seven centuries old. So it was built in the 13th century, above the Amaghu River, near the city of Yeghegnadzor. In 2002 it became a UNESCO heritage sight.

Funny story about the church. Apparently the Armenian alphabet was designed so that a single swastika was a monogram of the alphabet: every letter could be found in its shape. This saved space, so that more could be written. During the unstable times, when invasions and destruction were common, Armenian history was written carved into the church walls, and words were written as monograms, with all the letters stacked on top of each other, in order to save space.

The church sits at the end of the gorge, on the most beautiful place of course! We arrived quite late so it was very quiet in and around the church, which we love. And as the sun dropped in the ocean somewhere in the world, the wind took over and one by one stars appears. We could see thousands if not millions of stars in the dark sky. No light pollution so it was all very visible. The Milky Way showed its grandeur and was almost as white as a single cloud on a clear day. Not long after the darkness set in, the few cars that had been here left and we were all alone.

Quietly we watched more stars stealing the show and the contours of the mountains only slightly visible against the sky that darkened even more. We saw stars falling and satellites moving. It made us dream of far away places that now seem unreachable. But, when this church was built the priests would certainly not imagine that we would be travelling to the universe one day. Let alone step on the moon! So, even though we seem so tiny under that big black sky we can do things unimaginable. Things that some people think impossible. Like reaching Armenia with a 45 year old Volkswagen van. 

And that, our dear reader, gives us reassurance and trust in the future of this journey. It might not continue exactly as we planned but every day on the road is a unknown advanture and we take them as they come. 

Love, Milene & Yuri

From temple to church

by mygrations | Aug 26, 2021

Finally exploring again. We love visiting cities and staying in a hotel, guesthouse, airbnb for a while but we love it even more to explore the roads with Alexine and drive towards unknown destinations. Not knowing where we will sleep that night, but enjoying the wind rushing through the van, while Alexine crosses mountains.

The only Pagan Temple of Armenia

This time we wouldn’t drive too far. Armenia is small so most places are not that far from each other, which we like and Alexine even more. It means she doesn’t heath up too much. Anyway, after 50 minutes we arrived in Garni. Famous for the Pagan Temple and the Symphony of Stones. We visited both, but first the Pagan Temple.

The Garni Pagan Temple was once a pagan temple dedicated to the Armenian sun god Mihr. Built in the middle of the 1st century CE, the Temple of Garni remarkably survived the destruction of pagan temples following Armenia’s conversion to Christianity in the 4th century CE, and countless invasions and earthquakes until its collapse in 1679 CE. 

Today, it is the only free-standing Greco-Roman structure in Armenia and seen by many as a potent symbol of Armenia’s classical past as well as its deep historical ties to the civilizations of Greece and Rome. We love when histories of different countries come together in yet another country.

The Temple of Garni is situated in a very strategic location, on a cliff, overlooking a range of the Geghama mountains as well as the Azat River (meaning; freedom river) near the Ararat Plain. The site was inhabited in prehistoric times, and there is evidence that it was also used by the Urartians between the 8th-6th centuries BCE.

A very nice place to visit, although also very crowded with people not interested in all of the above. They are mainly visiting to take a selfie in various positions. Along our trip we’ve seen so many people being more occupied with themselves by taking selfies all the time, in various positions, than absorbing the stories, the culture and the incredible architecture of a place like this. The Pagan temple was not any different from a bridge in Rome or a Svan tower in Ushguli. It’s annoying, yet understanding. The time we are living in is all about individualism, social media is built on it. A selfie on Instagram gets a lot more likes due to the algorithm than a beautiful photo of the temple without persons in it. Sad, but true.

Thus, after getting a bit annoyed but the selfie bombs of people we decided it was time to move on.

Symphony of Stones

Not far from the village Garni we found one of the most well-known and beautiful natural monuments of Armenia: Symphony of Stones. It is said, like the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland & Scotland, that this natural monument is the result of the collapse of the volcanic rocks. And yeah, it looks very similar. Though the difference is the amount. The whole Garni Gorge is filled with these volcanic rocks.

The basalt columns (some nearly 50 meters high) hang against gravity of which some resemble an organ; thus, symphony of stones. We decided this was a good place to park the van, have diner and watch the stars, of which there were many. The moon shone on the symphony and while the last picnic group was gone silence returned. Except for the river and birds of pray flying over.

Visiting Geghard Monastery, UNESCO sight

After a very good night sleep we headed towards another monastery and several churches. It would also be the day that we visited a UNESCO sight, and ate one!

The monastery of Geghard contains a number of churches and tombs, most of them cut into the rock, which illustrate the very peak of Armenian medieval architecture. The complex of medieval buildings is set into a landscape of great natural beauty, surrounded by towering cliffs at the entrance to the Azat Valley. – UNESCO

Read more about the monastery via the link above. It was quite busy when we got here but it was doable. So, the first church we visited is the main church. Upon entering we found that the church is built upon a spring. Of course, many then think it’s holy water but it didn’t taste any different than mountain water so that’s debatable. Anyway, there were some people taking it very serious. One lady was standing at the foot of the spring, mumbling some words and making a cross on her chest without stopping. We went to check all the other rooms, went outside to check some thumbs, even went to visit one other church before coming back to see what was happening inside the spring room. She was still standing there, making crosses and mumbling words. You gotta love the dedication. She did get angry at other people filling their water bottles with holy mountain spring water.

However, the real gem of Geghard is not actually the biggest church but the one on top of it. While entering there a man was singing. Not quietly, not in himself but out loud. It filled the church with his voice and the echo and gave me a chill down my spine. I, Milene, was alone with this man and I almost felt a bit spiritual, which I’m truly not. You understand that when he left and Yuri arrived, he took his place. Not singing like him but humming. It sounded even better! I love it when places are built to make sounds become music and when the voices are magnified so that everyone listens. Even though one cannot understand.

After our private concert we left. We climbed up a little bit to an old church cut in the mountain and left right after it.

On the way to a campsite (yep!) we saw ladies baking bread. Not just any bread but Lavash!!

Finally eating UNESCO bread: Lavash

Lavash is a soft and flat bread that can be folded easily to make sandwiches and wraps. It’s popular in countries such as Armenia, Iran, Azerbaijan and Turkey. Traditionally, lavash is made in tanoor (brick or wood oven) or on saj Tava. Lavash can be preserved for about 6 months. The ladies showed us how they make the bread. Let’s share it:

A simple dough made of wheat flour and water is kneaded and formed into balls, which are then rolled into thin layers and stretched over a special oval cushion that is then slapped against the wall of a traditional conical clay oven. After thirty seconds to a minute, the baked bread is pulled from the oven wall.

Of course we bought some of the bread and tasted it, delicious! It’s not that different from Turkish, Iranian or other Middle Eastern bread but it’s Unesco so it’s cool.

Lavash is included in UNESCO Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The nomination was submitted by The Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Armenia and the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Armenia in 2013. “Lavash, the preparation, meaning and appearance of traditional bread as an expression of culture in Armenia”.

With UNESCO bread in our pocket we knocked on the door of Campsite 3Gs. On Instagram many people told us we should go here so why ask if you don’t listen right? Thus, we arrived here and were welcomed by Sandra, one of the owners. Sandra and her husband Marty are from The Netherlands and started the campsite in 2015. They call it campsite, we think it’s more a combination of glamping, camping & b&b. And that’s exactly what it is. With two kitchens, three toilets, showers, a washing machine and wonderful swimming pool this place has it all. We will stay here a couple of nights to relax, do some work and plan the rest of our trip because if Iran doesn’t open it’s borders and other borders might close we have to consider different options.

What do you think we should do?

Love, Milene & Yuri

Fixing Alexine and our vaccination

by mygrations | Aug 24, 2021

“If there was wisdom in beards, all goats would be prophets.” – an Armenian proverb. And even though we have visited about 20 churches already, Yuri is still no prophet. Neither am I. But yeah, 14 days in Armenia and already 20 churches! Oh my. We don’t visited churches because of religion, never lit a candle, nor do we ever make the sign of a cross. Or walk out backwards. We are not religious and do not believe in the constitution of the church. So why do we visit religious buildings? Cause it is telling a story, it shows part of the past. That, we truly love. Imagining how monks have lived hundreds and sometimes thousands of years ago.

YereVAN fixing

In Yerevan we didn’t visit a church though. We visited the genocide museum, watched a private screening of the movie ’45 days – the fight for a nation’ and tried as many restaurants as possible. We walked the streets up and down, eating here and there, drinking lots of milkshakes and hiked the 550 steps of stairs to have a look over the city. Unfortunately Mount Ararat didn’t show itself too clear. It didn’t matter, the delicious food was all we needed. And oh my is that a blessing!

We ate and drank our way through the city. The most surprising was the Pizza with apple, cinnamon and raisins. Soooo delicious!!

We stayed a bit longer in Yerevan, first because we needed to fix the van. Again. In Georgia we had problems with our battery, we apparently cooked the battery over and over again. When the third battery cooked in Armenia we understood it was time to fix things. You know when you cook a battery when you smell something like overdue eggs and when you put your ear next to the battery you can actually hear it cooking.

So, we went to the garage of a friend of a friend; Agop. Little did we know that the three guys working there were all named Agop. So Agop 1, 2 and 3 worked on our van. They are Armenians born in Syria and that meant; they know what they are doing. In Syria there are (or were) many Volkswagen vans on the road, just like in Iran. After checking the battery and explaining our problem we found out that again it was the alternator causing the problem. We took it out and found out the alternator itself had been cooked. Luckily, someone knew someone who found an alternator. Not a Bosch alternator, unfortunately, but not a Chinese one either. This one is from the USA, alright, we take it.

Alternator changed, but now Alexine had some starting issues. Thus we took the carburettor out and opened it. Lot of dirt in it and the gasket was thorn to pieces. So, Agop 1 cut new gasket, Agop 3 cleaned the carburettor and Agop 2 installed it.

Starting the van after such a big operation always feels scary but this time, BAM! She was onnnn… And on fire. She hasn’t sound so good since ages! Hopefully this time she’ll be running a little bit longer than last time.

We happily, and a little more broke left the scene, on to another appointment.

Getting vaccinated in Armenia

We read that many Iranians flocked to Yerevan to get themselves vaccinated because in Iran it’s going too slow. Politics and corruption are getting in the way there. So, we figured, if Iranians can get a vaccination here we might as well try. Thus, we went to the mobile vaccination unit on Northern Avenue. “Sorry, the line is so long we are not sure if we can vaccinate you today” she said. But, after a kind conversation she put us on the list anyway. In the meantime we got ourselves another milkshake, oh my these things are good, walked around for a bit and returned. Still 20 people in front of us, so we walked again a bit. The same streets, same buildings, same people. We did find out that most of Yerevan is newly built, almost nothing is left of the old city, which is a pity.

And did you know that the architect of the city had a vision about all buildings being smaller than the Opera house? That would’ve been great and for a long time it was like that. Until a new government came, destroyed the old beautiful buildings and replaced them with buildings without a soul. Luckily the people of Yerevan bring that soul because my oh my is this a great city! We absolutely love the parks with their many restaurants and pubs.

At 20.00 the mobile vaccination clinic would close and it was 19:45 when it was our turn. Pfew. We got the Astra Zeneca vaccination. Within 10 minutes we were both vaccinated. Hurray! Thus, we went to celebrate it with a beer. Little did we know that people shouldn’t drink for two days after the vaccination. We only drank one beer so felt it should be okay. In Armenia they also say you shouldn’t shower for two days after the vaccination. Don’t know what the reason behind that is but to us it seems a bit too much on the safe side.

The next day we woke up with a horrible hangover. Our bodies were turning hot, then cold. Couldn’t hold my head straight. So we booked another night at the hotel and did absolutely nothing that day. Just sleeping, watching movies and sleeping.

We woke up and all was over, we were fine, felt absolutely normal and were ready to hit the road again. Which we did.

Love, Milene & Yuri

The annihilation of the Armenians

by mygrations | Aug 22, 2021

Exactly 82 years ago Adolf Hilter said “…who, after all, speaks today of the annihilation of the Armenians?” Let’s proof Adolf Hilter wrong and talk about it.

The definition of genocide

To understand what happened in Armenia it’s good to know the definition of ‘genocide’. A genocide is the deliberate killing of a large number of people from a particular nation or ethnic group with the aim of destroying that nation or group.

Eastern Anatolia

For centuries Eastern Anatolia (now East Turkey) was inhabited primarily by Christian Armenians who share the area with Muslim Kurds. The area was ruled by a succession of Armenian dynasties, although it often faced incursions by outside powers. The Armenian independence was largely brought to an end by a wave of invasions and migrations by Turkic-speaking people at the beginning of the 11th century. In the 15th and 16th centuries the region was secured by the Ottoman Turks and integrated into the vast Ottoman Empire.

Armenians in Anatolia

There were about 2.5 million Armenians living in the Ottoman Empire at the beginning of the 20th century. They were mostly concentrated in the six provinces of Eastern Anatolia and weren’t a majority in any of the regions in which they lived.

Life for Armenians in the Ottoman Empire was difficult and unpredictable, and they often received harsh treatment from the dominant Kurdish nomads.

The Ottoman Empire

In the Ottoman Empire Muslim Turks enjoyed the status of the ruling ethnic group and non-Muslims had certain religious, linguistic and culture rights, but were considered subordinate dhimmis. The rights of Armenians were frequently violated, they were constantly discriminated. 

They had no right to serve in the army or wear arms, they were not allowed to testify against Muslims in a court of law, nor to wear fine clothes, they had no right to ride horses and their houses had to be lower than those of Muslims. Armenians were taxed at a much higher rate. Because most courts and judges favoured Muslims, Armenians were often victims to violence and when land, livestock or property was taken from them they couldn’t do anything.

Armenians were poor but some found success as a merchant and artisan. Thus, due to international trade Armenians established settlements in Istanbul and even India and Europe during the 17^th and 18^th century. A small number of Armenian families were able to work at a bank, and even in the government. 

The success being the downfall

However, the influence and prominence of well-educated Armenians had a drawback. It is said that this became the source of resentment and suspicion amongst Muslims. Sounds familiar right? 

The people within the Ottoman Empire thought the Armenians would eventually betray it to form their own independent state. 

Activists, many from Russian Caucasia, wanted to protect their fellow Armenians and did that by agitating for an independent state. Two revolutionary parties were formed: Henchak and Dashnaktsutyun. However, many Armenians kept believing sympathisers in Christian Europe would pressure the Ottoman Empire to protect the Armenians. The activities of the two parties stoke fear and anxiety among the Muslims. 

A lot of mass violence against Armenians erupted in the late 19^th and early 20^th century. In 1894 Armenians in the Sasun region refused to pay an oppressive tax, Ottoman troops and Kurdish tribesman killed thousands of Armenians in the region. The mass killings began. In the fall of 1895 Ottoman authorities tried to suppress an Armenian demonstration in Istanbul, it became a massacre. 

In between 1894 and 1896 hundreds of thousands of Armenians were killed in massacres, known as the Hamidian massacres. Up to 300.000 Armenians fell victim to the massacres, hundreds of thousands either emigrated or were Islamized. About 2.500 settlements, 570 churches, 75 monasteries were looted and ruined. More than 300 churches were converted into mosques. 

The Young Turks

In 1909 a group of Ottoman revolutionaries an organisation within the broader ‘Young Turks’ came to power. Armenians welcomed the Young Turks and with them the restoration of the Ottoman constitution. However, the Young Turks became more militant, less tolerant for non-Turks and increasingly suspicious of their Armenian subjects. In 1913 the most militant members of the Young Turks, Enver Pasa and Talat Pasa, came to power in a coup d’état. 

Whenever the Ottoman Empire suffered a humiliating defeat, like in the first Balkan War (1912 – 1913), it was blamed on treachery of the Christians. The conflicts also send thousands of Muslim refugees to the Ottoman lands, intensifying conflict between Muslims and Christians over land. 

The Armenian genocide

In January 1915 the battle of Sarikamis took place. Enver Pasa attempted to push back the Russians but suffered the worst Ottoman defeat of the war. Of course the Young Turk government blamed it on the Armenians. Armenian soldiers were demobilized and disarmed. They were then systematically murdered by Ottoman troups. The first victims of the Armenian genocide.

Soon, Armenians were deported to Syria, send to death camps. Throughout the summer and autumn of 1915 Armenians were removed from their homes. They marched to desert concentration camps. The deportation was accompanied by a systematic campaign of mass murder. Survivors who reached Syria lived in concentration camps, often starved to death. About 600.000 to 1 million of Armenians were slaughtered or died on the marches. 

During the deportation thousands of Armenian children were kidnapped by the Kurds, Turks and Arabs. Sometimes they offered the parents some food and other times parents gave their children to Muslim families by their own will, hoping that the children would escape deportation and be safe.

Armenian children were given Turkish names immediately upon entering the orphanages. They were also assigned numbers instead of surnames. They were forbidden to speak Armenian or pray. Instead they were taught the Quran and Islamic prayers.

During the genocide Armenian women were subjected to inhuman treatment. Most of them became victims of sexual abuse and violence. Rape was deemed an important function for the humiliation of the target group by the perpetrators of the genocide. Since women and girls constituted the reproductive asset of the victim nation. Incidents of mass rape, public humiliation of women and children before their kin’s eyes terrorized and demoralized not only the immediate victims, but their families and the community at large. 

On the deportation route many mothers threw themselves with their children from cliffs and bridges preferring death rather than lasting tortures and disgrace. Women were also abducted on the deportation routes, forcedly Islamized and taken to Muslim harems. After conversion they were turned into sex slaves and often sold at slave markets. During military conflicts and genocide rape and sexual assault constitute war crimes, crimes against humanity and element of genocide crimes. 

Alma Johansson – Swedisih missionary – an eye witness said:

“The rest, about a hundred people, were either buruied alive in huge pits outside the city or driven into houses and burnt. All the inmates of our orphanage were amongst the latter. All I wished in those days was for a merciful bullet to hit me. Sometimes I found myself sitting on the floor holding my head in my hands, terrified that I was losing my mind.”
 
“…Everywhere there were Turks bragging of their feats of the last few days. One gendarme boasted that he had been one of those who burned our children. He said they’d “had fun” shooting at the roof windows of the burning house. Naturally the poor soulds inside screamed with terror! No one paid too much attention to my testimony: the world was busy with “more important things” than the massacres of a small nation of three million people” 

Genocide or no genocide?

Armenians charge that the campaign was a deliberate attempt to destroy the Armenian people and, thus, an act of genocide. The Turkish government has resisted calls to recognize it as such, contending that, although atrocities took place, there was no official policy of extermination implemented against the Armenian people as a group.

Turkey has steadily refused to recognise that the events of 1915–16 constitute a genocide, even though most historians have concluded that the deportations and massacres do fit the definition of genocide—the intentional killing of an ethnic or religious group. While the Turkish government and allied scholars have admitted that deportations took place, they maintain that the Armenians were a rebellious element that had to be pacified during a national security crisis. They acknowledge that some killing took place, but they contend that it was not initiated or directed by the government. Major countries—including Israel and Great Britain—have also declined to call the events a genocide, in order to avoid harming their relations with Turkey. In 2014 government officials in Turkey offered condolences to the Armenian victims, but Armenians remained committed to having the killings during World War I recognized as a genocide. – Britannica

To this date Armenia and Turkey are debating whether this was a genocide or not. 33 countries recognized the Armenian genocide. Many still do not because of their relations with Turkey. When France formally passed a genocide resolution in 2011, Turkey temporarily recalled its ambassador; it did the same thing to Austria in 2016 and to The Netherlands in 2018.

Turkey refers to the Armenian massacre as the “Events of 1915.” Ankara puts the number of Armenian deaths at 500,000 and points out that hundreds of thousands of Muslims died from combat, starvation, cold and disease in eastern Anatolia during the war. The official line is that ethnic Armenians represented a fifth column backed by Russia during World War I, and that the mass deportation and accompanying Armenian deaths were neither premeditated nor intentional — a key requirement in the legal definition of genocide.

Of course there is a lot more to write about the Armenian genocide and the history of this country. But, we are no historians, we are travellers with an interest in the history of the countries we travel through. But, if there is anything unclear, if there is anything you’d like to know more about, if something of the above is incorrect. Please let us know in the comment. And of course anything you’d like to share about this subject. We are very interested in your opinion. Did you know about the Armenian genocide? What is new? How does it make you feel?

Love, Milene & Yuri

Source: Britannica, Armenian-Genocide, Armenian Genocide Museum.

Entering the ancient Christian country of Armenia

by mygrations | Aug 15, 2021

For the past days we’ve been residing in North Armenia. After five weeks of Georgia it was time to leave. 

Border crossing

It wasn’t the easiest to cross the border. First, car drivers and passengers cannot get through together. Instead passengers have to stand in a long long line to get through while the drivers get through rather quickly.

Not us though. To enter Georgia one needs to have to do a PCR test before entering and three days after. We didn’t do the second PCR test which resulted in a fine. Not that they mentioned doing this PCR test at the border so how would we know? Internet of course.

Well, not a big problem but it took them a long time to decide what to do with us. Even though we did do PCR tests which were both negative.

Entering Armenia was a hell lot easier. Again, passengers and drivers have to go through separate controls but that was about it. Checking where we’ve been, looking through our passports and giving a stamp. That was it.

Well, we had to buy a Customs declaration and of course a car insurance. Which also was quite the hassle as the first guy tried to rip us off. 50 Euro’s for 30 day car insurance, whereas the second guy we checked gave us a car insurance of 30 days for 10 Euro’s.

Alaverdi & sleeping on bees

Our plan was not to travel too far today, so after about an hour we stopped at Alaverdi. We headed up to the Arm Bee Farm where they had a nice hut for us, right on top of bee hives! We have never heard of sleeping on top of bees but apparently it’s very healthy.

Not long after we arrived two other people arrived, having booked the other hut. They are Armenians but living in the USA, born in Iran though. We got to talk about the great things to do in Armenia, the war in Nagorno-Karabach and ourselves of course. We had so much fun that we soon drank Georgian wine and decided to have diner together. 

We both learned a lot about the history of Armenia during diner which was absolutely great. 

Hiking from monastery to monastery

The first day in Armenia was great, the second day proofed to be even better. We headed towards our first Armenian monastery with Araz and Romik. Haghpat monastery proofed to be a gem! The monastery was also used as an educational building so there was an amazing library which they later used as winery. The area was so big and still so well preserved. Amazing! Lot’s of crosses, old writings and stone carvings. 

Afterwards we hiked to Sanahin monastery. While on the way we had to hike a steep cliff, checked out a fire pit from where they warned the villagers when enemies were on their way and had to shelter for the rain. We also arrived in a village where they celebrated the opening of a new church. There are more than 4.000 churches in Armenia already but apparently that’s not enough. We continued our route through the beautiful village, picked some berries to eat and finally, after about 3 hours we arrived at the Sanahin monastery. 

This monastery was a lot less beautiful, though more crowded, than the first one. But, this is the older of the two. Actually Sanahin in Armenian means “this one is older than the other”. A bit strange, being built earlier and named later but alright. 

So, we didn’t stay for too long but did has a brief visit to the Anastas and Artyom Mikoyan brothers who are born in this village. Anastas was in charge of administering food in the USSR and survived 60 years in the politburo, outlasting even Staling. Artyom was the one of the designers of the USSR’s first jet fighter in WWII, the MiG. We hadn’t heard from them so it was nice to get to know their stories. 

Beekeeping at Arm Bee Farm

The next morning it was time for a beekeeping workshop. Eventhough I, Milene, know most of bees and beekeeping its always good to listen to others and learn from them. As a beekeeper you keep learning. I remember Tony, my teacher, telling me “if you don’t learn anything anymore you’re doing something wrong”. Thus, we got to learn about the worker bees, queen bees and drones. While in England we collect honey every other week here in Armenia they only do it once. It’s the big difference between ecological beekeeping and commercialised beekeeping. Of course we got to see some bees in action as well. 

We decided to stay another night whereas Araz and Romik moved on to their next spot. Doing a little work, relaxing and enjoying the bees. 

Have a good Sunday! 

Love, Milene & Yuri